Top Boot Cowl

DSC05149

DSC05144

The kit came with all the aluminum for the boot cowl.  However, it’s up to you to build a removable panel if you so desire.  Seeing as how working on the avionics would be much easier with a removable panel, I built it with a very large flush mounted one.

I decided to place some stiffeners along the seams and down the center.  To make it look nice, everything was dimpled and put together with flush rivets. I love back riveting!

DSC05111

Finished product.

Tunnel

November and December turned out to be extremely busy months.  Several unplanned things took me away for extended periods of time.  So I wasn’t able to do much work on the plane during those months.

DSC05112

Today I started more work on the boot cowl assembly.  The logical place to start is at the bottom with the tunnel.

They manual says that it’s intended to go on the bottom (outside) of the firewall flange, however it’s preferred to go on top (inside) of that flange.  Mine happened to fit very well on top.  Excellent!

Side Panels

DSC05110

Today I started work on the sheet metal that will make up the entire boot cowl assembly.  I began with the side panels under the doors.  These are optional as their not portrayed in the plans.  However, they provide a nice transition to the bottom skins and allow for a nice place to attach strut and gear fairings.

Rudder Fairleads

DSC05077

The rudder cables were rubbing a little on the rear seat frame so fabricating some fairleads was in order.

DSC05105

DSC05104

DSC05103

DSC05102

I’m still a rather novice welder.  I only took a single course at Oshkosh this year to learn how.  However, I was fairly happy with how the fairleads turned out!   I clamped them in place, welded them, sanded, primed and epoxy painted.

More Fuel Lines

DSC05089

I started working on the fuel T’s that come down from the wing.  Like I mentioned before, all fuel lines should move downhill.  This is not only to promote smooth fuel flow, but also to make sure there are no low areas to trap water that may freeze later.

Bob recommends putting the T in this position as low as possible.  This helps it maintain a down hill slope along the lower door frame.  However, I just couldn’t live with the T going through the door frame bulkhead at the angle of that door frame.  So I carefully bent the lower frame to match the angle of the fuel line coming down the lower door frame.

This allows for a constant downhill flow with no low points.  Mission accomplished!